Nasi Tumpang

For any serious foodie traveller out there who wants to explore the Malaysian food scene, this is something highly recommended to try.

Tumpang translates as hitching a ride or overlapping, and from the style and shape of the rice, you can see multiple layers of dishes compacted with rice and wrapped in a cone shape with banana leaves.

This differs from your ordinary rice dish; you can find it only in selected coffee shops for breakfast or tea around Kota Bharu.

The main layered dishes are packed from leftovers from the previous day’s dinner. During rest or long working hours, they would open up the cone-shaped banana leaf rice and eat it as a meal. It is convenient, and cutlery is not required, making the Nasi Tumpang easy to consume. 

The locals said this was a popular breakfast or tea dish and would sell out quickly. Over the years, whenever I visited Kelantan, I would make it a point to explore other places selling Nasi Tumpang.

If you dig deeper into the origins of this unique and strange dish, it is also shared with Indonesia as they, too, have a similar dish called Nasi Tumpeng.

It’s just a difference in spelling, but the Indonesian one looks very intriguing in how it is prepared and served. In Malaysia, Kelantan is home to Nasi Tumpang, where recipes have been handed down from generation to generation.

How far back this dish goes has yet to be determined. But it is said that this dish is over a century old. I recently read a thesis paper on this; it was noted that due to the painstaking effort to produce Nasi Tumpang, many have left this trade to pursue other, more accessible foods.

This is now becoming a loss to the Kelantanese people as it is claimed to be one of the original dishes. 

Kelantanese Nasi Tumpang is made from plain white rice, while Indonesian Nasi Tumpeng is made from rice with turmeric, which gives it a yellow colour.

The dish is also served as a form of thanksgiving for the abundance of harvest. During this ceremony, the top portion of the Nasi Tumpeng is cut and given to the most important person in the ceremony.

‘Tompang‘ also means making a fist and punching the ingredients into the banana leaf cone.

It also depends on what the cook wants to include inside. The most common Nasi Tumpang in Kelantan would be simple rice, serunding (shredded beef, chicken or fish floss), chicken curry, eggs, cucumbers, and the unique Gulai Ikan or Fish Curry.

However, in today’s lifestyle world, many restaurants and cafes have come up with their own versions of Nasi Tumpang with prawns, eggs, beef, squid and so on.

But at the end of the day, each Nasi Tumpang is unique to the maker as he or she will have his or her favourite ingredients in the cone packet of rice.

Well, there are two main ways to do this, one where you open up the banana leaf and sample the different layers, accompanied by rice on each layer to fully sample the unique taste.

The other way is to open it up and give it a good old mix before consuming the dish as a whole. 

Ask any Kelantanese, and they will know of this popular breakfast, lunch, and tea cafe.

One cafe in Kuala Lumpur called ‘Nasi Kukus Sentral’ at Plaza Sentral in KL makes this dish. So, if you are in Kuala Lumpur and want to try this, head on over there.

Each cone is priced around RM7.00 to RM10.00 due to the multiple choices of fillings stuffed inside. 

You can taste or experience what eating Nasi Tumpang is like in a shopping mall and a proper restaurant.

The Warung is also located on the 1st floor of Mid Valley Megamall and is open daily from 8.00 AM to 10.00 PM.

We recommend going before lunch to try this. Let me know if you know of other recommended places that sell Nasi Tumpang in the Klang Valley.

This will be something out of this world, a great conversation piece, and even a great social media photo. Overall, this is undoubtedly an authentic Malaysian food dish to try.