Borneo Ape Trail in Sarawak

This experience is perfect for anyone that wants to explore the wilderness of Borneo, to try and spot the red ape, otherwise known as the Orangutan.

While it was one common here, I should just inform you that the red apes are no longer easy to spot. Some lucky one have seen them, but they are one out of ten times on visiting this place.

Anyway, this experience was done by me to understand what the Red Ape Trail was all about, and I can assure you that you will have one of the best trekking adventures here in Batang Ai, Sarawak.

Sarawak Borneo Red Ape Trail

I met Mona from Planet Borneo, who is in charge of the trip at the airport where the flight got in late in the afternoon. We went straight to the lodge to check in before heading out to have something to bite in town. 

The former Planet Borneo lodge in Kuching

So, during our meal, Mona had briefed us about our journey, telling us the pros and cons which was informative.

Normally we travel with Timberland trekking shoes but it was advised that we change to the good old ‘Adidas Kampungs’ as parts of the trek were really tricky. For your added information, the ‘Adidas Kampung’ translates as Village Adidas shoes. 

These really cheap shoes (RM12 a pair) are the ultimate grip in any condition and it has been proven many times. Even jungle rangers I have met in Borneo over the years swear by them.

So, no two ways about this, we got ourselves a pair of these. A quick walk around the town and we were back to the lodge for our much needed rest. 

Inside, there is a full serviced kitchen, lockers, dryers and also a lounge area with satellite television and computers. It is also a ten minute walk into the heart of Kuching so location wise, it is pretty quiet and yet convenient.

In the morning, we had our quick simple breakfast at the lodge before making our journey to pick up a friend from the tourism board who was also going with us.

Mind you the total journey to Batang Ai Dam takes about five hours by using the PAN Borneo Highway. From the dam, it will take us another two hours by a local long boat to the start of the trek. So it was a long day for us.

Serian Stop Over

Traditional roots from the Serian Market

More roots for medicinal purposes

During the journey, we would be making two stops along the way where our first stop was at the town of Serian where we will taste a typical Malaysian breakfast of Roti Canai and coffee or tea.

Serian is one of the main towns out of Kuching which reminds me of the old towns that have not changed much.

The overall charm captivates me as I explore the markets while the group looks for some last minute necessities for our camping trip.

Local mosquito repellent

At the local Serian market, I see lots of traditional herbs and remedies being sold by the old folk here. Pepper roots are sold by the bunches while at another stall, tiger bamboo is available by the bunches.

Local fruits that are not recognized by me catch my eye as I continue scanning the products and finally, I notice a kind of root or bark that is rolled up and in brownish copper.

Asking about this, it is actually a special tree bark that is used to keep mosquitoes away when you burn it at night. Finally we head over to a local coffee shop to try another local Sarawakian popular dish here.

As far as taste is concerned, this was awesome! Much better than the many other I have tried around Sarawak, not the best but it was great.

The texture was perfect and the sauce used was well balanced. So with a full and satisfied stomach, we got back into the van and continued our journey.

Lachau Town

The Ibans are the indigenous people of Sarawak and Borneo where they were once known as fierce headhunters.

These days, they are common farmers and skilled carvers who churn out beautiful woodwork in the form of parangs (swords), shields, masks and statues.

Among them are the unique fruits found in the region which look rather odd. Some of the weird things I came across are ants nest which are said to cure high blood pressure and diabetes and a few wild boar legs.

After this odd experience, we settled down at one of the local coffee shops to have a drink before making our way to Batang Ai Dam.

Rows and rows of pepper trees and modern day wooden longhouses were a common sight. The main roads that connect Kuching and Brunei are small and tricky.

They are mostly two direction only therefore everyone uses these roads, from bicycles, motorbikes, express buses and even huge trucks. Driving here will require some form of skill if you ask me.

Upon reaching the Batang Ai Dam, I was pleased to know that there was a proper washroom facility which was operated by the Hilton.

Yes, the Hilton group used to manage one of the properties here, a very unique Sarawak Longhouse styled resort which is the only one in the world called the Hilton Batang Ai Resort. (Now it is just called Aiman Batang Ai Resort)

However to get here, you need to book your stay where they will ferry you across the huge Batang Ai Dam to the resort. This journey will take you a good 20 minutes from the main jetty here.

Most of the locals and indigenous people here use this as the main platform for moving in and out of the area. This dam is huge! I was told that our journey to the first stop would take about an hour or so through the dam and deep into the main rivers here.

We would stop at the trekkers home, which is a traditional Iban longhouse to collect his backpack and then make our way deeper into the river towards Dampa Jelia which is the name of the camp. 

Taking a boat at the Batang Ai dam

We jumped on board the slim longboats with our trekking guides and goods and began our journey through the dam.

These longboats are so slim, if you move around too much, it will affect the buoyancy of the boat therefore it is advised to sit still and enjoy the ride there.

Moving around will have to be done in a slow and calm matter in order not to shake the boat. While cruising down the dam, I simply sat back with camera in hand and absorbed the stunning beauty of the area.

After about an hour, we had arrived at the Delok Longhouse where a floating wooden jetty was our boat parking.

The local trekking guide (who looks a little like Smeagol from Lord of the Rings) and Mona had invited us up to the longhouse to have a look around. Why not, as this would be my third original longhouse visit over the years and I was curious to see how this one looked like inside. 

As we made our way up the main longhouse entrance, a bunch of Iban ladies were gathered at the doorway and happily welcomed our group.

Looking all dressed up and ready to go somewhere, they communicated in the Iban language with Smeagol while he mumbled something at them, and they greeted us with the universal ‘hello’ complimented with a genuine big smile.

I returned the gesture and made my way in.

Inside the Delok longhouse

Children were playing with whatever was available while the women were gathered at the outdoor section of the stilted longhouse cooking a meal.

An Iban elderly man goes about his daily chores

Cats, dogs and even chickens were seen running all over the place and walking in further, I noticed an old experienced Iban man doing something intricate. 

Iban motifs were being created freehand by the shirtless old man whom was also covered in traditional tattoos.

I stood for a moment in awe watching something I have never see in the cities before, and I ask for permission to take photographs of him and his work. (Always ask permission before you shoot, this is something I learned along the way)

Usually Tuak or fermented rice wine is served but this time, it was just plain orange juice served. After mingling for about five minutes, Smeagol had got all his stuff and signaled us to move on.

Passing each of the house rooms, I noticed all sorts of decorations where some of them were even for sale as souvenirs. Maybe next time I thought as we said our goodbyes and headed towards the longboat.

You can also see my other Sarawak longhouse photography pictures from other places as I did a special black and white series for thar. 

The vegetation started to become thicker while the silence was only drowned by the little motor that ran the longboat.

Soon after a good 10 minutes, we passed another local longhouse and village and the boatman indicated that this was the last village before our start of the jungle trek.

The longboats that ferried us to the start of the trek

The rains and strong waters carry them down the hills into this part of the river where there must have been at least hundreds of floating logs in all sizes and shapes.

Looking up, there was no more river but a small waterfall in the front of us. Finally, we had arrived at the start of our Borneo red ape trail in Sarawak. Part two will be continued one day.