A MasWings Twin Otter Plane makes a landing in Bakelalan.

Flights that land here are subject to the weather, meaning if it is raining heavily in Ba’Kelalan and your flight comes in, the flight might turn back and head to the original airport.

Flights are also thrice-daily on certain days of the week, and the only airline operating here is MasWings, which flies in from Miri.

As I visited Ba’Kelalan for the first time in my life, I took an overland 4WD journey from Miri to here and departed on a flight out.

The overland journey took me a total of about six hours, and the best part was that I sat in the back of the 4WD for the ultimate experience of driving through old logging roads, plantations and through the pristine rainforest and also the montane terrains of interior Sarawak.

While you may think this is a grand adventure overland, let me share with you what one of the guides told me: now you have finally experienced the Borneo Massage whilst sitting in a 4WD on the old logging roads.

Merarap Hot Springs

Our first stop was at a local retreat or resort called Merarap Hot Springs, located deep in the rainforest. A local Lun Bawang man and his wife run this beautiful place, which caters mainly to locals, and the only way here is by 4WD.

Spending a night here and experiencing the natural hot spring next to a raging class four river was something out of this world. Since it was just an overnight trip, I managed to try all the different hot spring pools that evening, accompanied by a few cold beers.

Merarap Hot Springs, a popular local spot on the way to Bakelalan

The following day, we departed after a local breakfast prepared by the hot spring owner, who chatted with us and even introduced us to his pet baby monkey, who seemed to be the water pump’s security guard.Well, it looked like that. Anyway, our journey from Merarap Hot Springs to Ba’Kelalan was another exciting one, stopping at various lookout points and a village river fish farm.

Here, the rare and prized Empurau Fish can fetch anywhere from RM500-600 per kilo (US$130-150) in Sarawak and RM1300-1500 per kilo (US$350-400) in Peninsular Malaysia.

Talk about crazy fish prices! To this day, I have never tried the exotic Empurau Fish, but I did see and touch the actual fish raised here in the river by the locals.

Bakelalan Salt Factory

Our journey continued, and a final stop at the local Bakelalan salt factory was mandatory, as this was one of the homegrown products here.Yes, a salt factory! I had never been to a salt factory, but this stirred my curiosity about how salt was made. Walking through the open fields to a hut in the distance, I saw a massive group of people waiting there – it looked more like a welcoming party.

Yes, I was right, as 70% of the local Ba’Kelalan people were there to greet us, from babies to elderly folk. Even the village headman was there, dressed in his best outfit. It was rare for them to receive visitors, and this was special; therefore, they came out in full force to welcome our group.

The salt-making process is being demonstrated.

With the welcoming protocols done, we were invited into the wooden hut to see how the famous and prized Bakelalan Salt was made from scratch.A natural salt well nearby was pumped into the hut, where they boiled it overnight and let it settle. They then keep stirring it on a high wood fire till the water becomes a crystallised salt compound.

Then the compound is dried out and packed as natural Bakelalan salt, sold at about RM20 per kilogram.

Well, I had to buy one to support the homegrown industry, and not only that, I was told by many people that Bakelalan Salt is one of the best salts in the region.

Bakelalan Village

From the salt factory, we headed straight into the core of Bakelalan town to the headman’s home, where a local and traditional Lun Bawang food spread awaited us.Just before that, a nice surprise performance by the local women, who performed a traditional Lun Bawang Dance, complete with full ethnic costumes.

It was knique if you ask me, as having travelled all over Malaysia, this was the first time I saw a performance out in the open which was well choreographed and the best part – the dancers actually sang the tune, there was no music played at all.

Lun Bawang ladies in traditional costumes

After the Lun Bawang Dance, we had our special traditional lunch, and I had no idea how to explain the dishes.They were all home-cooked by different families and had strange names. Some dishes were equally unique, as I had never tried them before. Their main staple was rice; therefore, there was high-quality Bakelalan rice (Adan Rice).

For the main dish, Nubu ‘Laya, rice wrapped in banana leaf and also the Lun Bawang rice cake or Kelupis, as it is locally called, were served. Fried chicken and fish dishes were also included, along with local vegetables and ferns.

Authentic Lun Bawang Food on the Nubu Layar

After our lunch, a cooking demonstration was conducted outdoors, which totally blew my mind away, and I’m not kidding. The day’s cooking menu was Bakelalan Rice Coffee.Then I thought hard….. Coffee – Check, Rice Coffee – Confused. I have never seen or made rice coffee, so this was really amazing.

Rice Coffee

I paid my fullest attention to what was happening, especially to the elderly lady preparing this. First, they took the uncooked Adan rice and pan-fried it without oil; the technique was to keep the rice constantly moving over the hot wood fire.

After about five minutes, you will see the rice browning, and they continue to fry it until it becomes a coffee brown or slightly burnt. Then it is removed, and a small portion is placed in a cup, topped up with boiling water.

Fine, I thought it was some gimmick, but when I smelled it, it really did smell like coffee. Next was the taste test – One sip, yes, tasted like coffee.And so, my friends, this was definitely a first for me as I am a total local coffee geek and the Bakelalan Rice Coffee went straight to number one in my coffee chart!

In the end, I managed to get a few packets of rice coffee to take away. Totally mind-blowing if you ask me. In other words, you – the reader, should put this on your bucket list if you love all things coffee.

Homestay in Bakelalan

Spending a night at the Apple Lodge, next to Malaysia’s smallest airport, was another exciting adventure. The temperature was cooling at night, but there was also absolutely nothing to do here once the night fell except catch a good night’s sleep.

The nice thing about this lodge is that it is run by a former pastor named Pak Tagal, and it was Ba Kelalan’s first homestay, started in 1997 with just 10 rooms.

The triple room at Apple Lodge in Bakelalan.

The Apple Lodge in Bakelalan now has 21 rooms, and it costs around RM80 for a three-person room, while the executive suite for two persons is priced at RM120 to RM130.

Note that the place is so cool; there is no air conditioning and hot water here. You can request boiled water if you need it. The price includes breakfast, and the Ba Kelalan Airport is your main view, which takes about two minutes to walk to. Since the start of the Apple Lodge, there are now around 22 homestays located in the nine villages around Bakelalan.

Where to Stay in Bakelalan?

I’ve recently added a list of homestays in Bakelalan for anyone interested in staying here.

Pa Sarui View Point Bakelalan

The following day, our group trekked up one of the hills to catch a birds-eye view of Bakelalan village. Having trekked many places before, I have to say this trek was pretty easy. At the beginning, you will pass through paddy fields and farmland, giving you a glimpse of the local lifestyle and culture.

View of Bakelalan from Pa Sarui’s viewpoint

Once you reach the Pa Sarui View Point, you will be rewarded with a beautiful view of the village in the valley. Provided the weather is good that day, it is best to start your trek in the morning. It also took about 45 minutes to trek up at a casual pace.

What to do in Bakelalan?

One of the villages seen from a distance in Bakelalan.

This is probably a common question: What is there to do in Bakelalan? In general, Bakelalan is perfect for those seeking the ultimate nature, outdoors and cultural experiences all in one.

I have to stress that technology is at its worst here, so hoping for the internet is something you should probably leave behind. The local people who live here practice a simple life with no rush and healthy living, and when you come here, you should try to emulate what the lifestyle is like over here.

Below is a list of what you can do in Bakelalan;

• Trekking/Hiking in Bakelalan – For activities in Bakelalan, there is a lot of trekking and hiking, as you can trek or hike from village to village.This is best done with a local tour guide, as you wouldn’t want to get lost here. Trails range from simple to advanced; therefore, you should enquire with the tour guides about the type you want to do.
• Trekking from Bakelalan to Bario: Some visitors make the journey from Bakelalan to Bario, a trek that takes about two to three days and is also a popular tourist activity. Several tour agents in Miri and Kuching sell these packages.
• Bakelalan Salt Factory Visit – One of two salt factories in the Kelabit Highlands, the Bakelalan Salt Factory is a must-visit to see how salt is produced with simple methods. The other salt factory is located in Bario.
• Cultural Experiences in Bakelalan – Visiting the Lun Bawang homes will introduce you to a unique culture, where you can learn about the people’s history. Seeing the local costumes and traditional dances is also an eye-opener.
• Lun Bawang Food – One of the unique highland cuisines is the local food here. Lun Bawang cuisine is entirely different from local Sarawakian food; therefore, it is highly recommended to try it here, as it will be served throughout your stay.
• Nature Walks – Walking around Bakelalan will expose you to a wealth of flora and fauna. From seeing the local farms and paddy fields to the many birds and even buffalo that help plough the villagers’ fields.

Waiting for the flight out of Bakelalan, notice the unique baggage carrier.

Apart from Bakelalan, I also journeyed to the Bario Highlands, a twin village in the Kelabit Highlands. In general, both villages have their own unique speciality and attractions. Bario is better known for the Pesta Nukenan Bario Festival, held annually and showcasing highland food and culture.

Conclusion

For more information, you can visit the Sarawak Tourism Board website. You can also book tours to Bakelalan through most travel agents in Kuching and Miri. Make sure you get a licensed tour guide, too.

Once again, I have to remind you that this place is not your ordinary tourist site, but rather a cultural and ecotourism destination that caters to niche markets or those looking for something different. If you want to know what a simple lifestyle is all about, I highly recommend visiting Bakelalan in Sarawak, Borneo.