Here is a list of things to do in Bakelalan, based on my firsthand experiences over the years visiting this unique part of Sarawak, which borders Kalimantan.

Bakelalan is home to the Lun Bawang people, who live at 3,000 feet in the Maligan Highlands, sometimes referred to as the Kelabit Highlands. This is genuinely one of Sarawak’s most hidden gems for an authentic tourism experience, so if you are up for something very different, then read on.

What To Do In Bakelalan

For those heading to Bakelalan, note what can be done there. First, Bakelalan is not your typical commercial tourism destination; it is more of a rural tourism destination in Sarawak. There are no hotels or commercial shops, cafes or anything you can find in general towns or cities. Bakelalan is a highland village that has a population of around 1000 Lun Bawang people.

Only homestays, locally run restaurants, and sundry shops are what you will find here. Bakelalan is perfect for anyone wanting a digital detox, escaping city life or anyone wishing to experience the Sarawakian outdoors, culture and heritage.

Bakelalan also consists of nine villages, and each of them is connected by walking trails. Below is a list of what to do in Bakelalan, based on my experience.

1. Visit the Bakelalan Salt Factory 

Locals with their Bakelalan salt at Buduk Bui.

This is a must-do for anyone visiting Bakelalan; the Buduk Bui salt factory is a homegrown community business that produces traditional Bakelalan salt. This village is the furthest from the main village, called Buduk Nur.

Preparing the local Lun Bawang food.

You will be guaranteed to experience this, a bonus if you are a food lover. Lun Bawang cuisine is unique and distinct from the typical Sarawakian dishes found in Miri or Kuching.

Traditional Lun Bawang desserts.

One of the signature dishes to try is the Nubalaya, pounded rice wrapped in banana leaves. If you are lucky, you can try pickled fish or game meat called Telu.

There is no Halal food for Muslim travellers, though maybe one or two families may have converted to Muslims, and you could probably get it there. Or, just bring your own rations for this trip.

View of Bakelalan from Pa Sarui Hill.

This is likely the primary activity you will experience while you are here. Bakelalan has many fascinating trails and, most importantly, is raw. Locals use these trekking trails for hunting or to travel to other parts of the highlands.

Trekking up a hill in Bakelalan.

The trails were accessible at the start but got a little hard halfway up, with a total time of about 90 minutes. The reward was excellent, as you could see the entire village from the top of Pa Sarui Hill.

Lun Bawang women in traditional costume for the cultural show.

This can be arranged by your homestay or tour operator, who will arrange exceptional performances for you or your group. The Lun Bawang cultural show can be done during the day or during dinner. At this performance, you will be introduced to the traditional song and dance of the Lun Bawang people here.

The Lun Bawang traditional dances include the popular Hornbill dance, long dances, and single dances, accompanied by the Sape. The Lun Bawang people were once known as fierce warriors and headhunters, but have no longer been since the turn of the century. A traditional Lun Bawang dinner is also part of this experience, and for any first-timer to Bakelalan, this is not to be missed.

Some of the highland birds seen in Bakelalan.

This hobby and activity have been around for about a decade, with only specialist bird watchers coming here to complete their checklist of Borneo birds. You need to engage a specialised company that does bird tours to Bakelalan, and there are not many around.

A Bakelalan pineapple growing in the wild.

Yes, they grow pineapples, but not at a commercial scale. You need to ask the locals when the fruit is available, and I was lucky enough to try one, which was on par with the ones I tried in the sister village, Bario.

The Bakelalan megalith stones. Photo by Carolyn from Footsteps on the Fringe.

As any old culture has its own myths, the Bakelalan megaliths are one of them, and the best part is that you can actually see them. This is provided you have a good guide explaining the stories behind these strange stones found in Bakelalan. The Bakelalan ancient stone monuments are seen at Long Lemutut village, and a few of them carry their own stories.

One of the more popular and accessible megaliths is the Upai Semaring Stove at Pa Tawing. Here, four to five massive boulders make up a cooking stove area, as the legend Upai Semaring was known to be a giant.

8. Visit the Bakelalan Waterfalls

One of the Bakelalan waterfalls. Photo by Carolyn from Footsteps on the Fringe.

According to Kevin from Dayak Wanderer, there are two main waterfalls in Bakelalan worth exploring. They are the Ritan Waterfall and the Pa Kumap Waterfalls. Both require trekking and are typically half- to full-day trips. I have not been to either, but I plan to visit.

Pa Kumap Waterfalls in Bakelalan is the nearest one, only two treks from the village and can be done in half a day. The Ritan Waterfalls is the more challenging option, with about six to eight hours of trekking. Generally, people take a 4X4 to get here because it saves time.

I found that there are, in fact, a few other smaller waterfalls in Bakelalan, but due to the hydroelectric dam project, most have shrunk in size and have very little water.

9. Try the Bakelalan Rice Coffee

Bakelalan Rice Coffee or Kopi Bera.

One of the most intriguing things I did when I visited Bakelalan was trying the local rice coffee. I have to admit, in my lifetime, I had never heard of rice being used to make coffee until I saw this place.

They call this Bera Kopi, or literally rice coffee made from Adan rice, one of the highest grades of highland rice. The rice is fried in a pan over firewood, and sugar is added while continuously stirring to caramelise it slightly.

Once the rice turns a dark reddish-brown, it is ready to be brewed into your regular black coffee. The method is straightforward: put the rice in a cup, add hot water, and stir. Sift it, and your Bakelalan coffee is ready.

10. Visit the Bakelalan Strawberry Farm

Since Bakelalan stopped growing apples, some local farmers have grown strawberries as the climate is more suitable here. The Bakelalan strawberries project was initiated in 2015, and the farm is located in Buduk Nur.

This private farm is owned by local Purait Gatum or Tagal Paran (Pak Tagal), and they open their houses and farms for visitors who want to come and see their Bakelalan strawberries. You can even buy them fresh from his farm.

11. Try the Bakelalan Apples

A Lun Bawang girl holds the Bakelalan Apples. Photo by Cinta.

This one is a little vague, but you should know that Bakelalan was once the apple capital of Malaysia. Yes, they grew apples in Bakelalan, which was a significant achievement, given that Malaysia is a tropical country.

I was told by a local that apple farming in Bakelalan stopped many years ago due to a manpower shortage and weather changes. However, the good news is that some of the locals recently started to plant apples in early 2018; hence, it takes three to four years before we can see fruit.

There are a few apple trees still being grown in Bakelalan, but unfortunately, they are not well cared for, and if you are lucky, they may be fruiting. Or else, do ask about the other unique fruits they grow here, like oranges, grapes, and even persimmons.

The Irau Aco Lun Bawang Festival is held in Lawas. Photo by Irau Aco FB Page.

This is only for those who are deeply engaged in the ethnic culture. The most popular local festival is Irau Aco Lun Bawang, held annually from the 31st of May to the 1st of June.

Known as a rice-harvest festival for the Lun Bawang people, it is also held in conjunction with the Gawai Festival, celebrated throughout Sarawak. The Lun Bawang people celebrate this all over Bakelalan on a local scale. Still, if you want to fully experience this on a large scale, the main event will take place in Lawas, which hosts the Irau Aco Lun Bawang Festival.

When is the Best Time to Visit Bakelalan? 

A rare sunset was visible from the airport in Bakelalan while I was here.

For me, anytime is a good time as Bakelalan is located in the highlands, the temperature is constantly cooling, and ranges from around 19°C and 24°C.

If you want to see the beautiful green paddy fields in Bakelalan, the best time for this is from November to early December. This is when the paddy fields are at their peak green. At the end of December, the colour begins to turn golden yellow, indicating the harvest is approaching.

The rainy season in Bakelalan runs from November to January, but it can rain at any time due to today’s unpredictable weather. In other months, it is often dry season. June is the harvest season for Gawai and an excellent time to experience the local Lun Bawang harvest festival in Bakelalan.

Where to Stay in Bakelalan?

I’ve recently added a list of homestays in Bakelalan for anyone interested in staying here.

A DCH6 Twin Otter aircraft operated by MasWings is landing at Bakelalan airport.

How to go to Bakelalan?

Overall, Bakelalan is one of Sarawak’s truly remarkable destinations, catering to a niche segment of tourism. Due to connectivity and infrastructure, this place is not that easy to access and here is the best way to travel to Bakelalan.

Flights to Bakelalan – I highly recommend you book a flight there and back, as it only takes about an hour from Miri with a quick stopover in Lawas. There are only three flights a week, on Monday, Wednesday and Saturday.

You also need to book well in advance if you plan to travel in two or more groups. There is also a strict passenger weight limit, and flights typically carry 12-14 passengers, even though the aircraft is listed as a 19-seater.

4×4’s that travel to Bakelalan.

4×4 to Bakelalan – The old way, and is still used by the locals to transport items. However, you need to do this via Lawas and a travel agent specialising in Bakelalan tours.

The 4×4 journey will take you about four to five hours one-way through logging roads, plantations, and beautiful, picturesque scenery. You will also experience the famous Bornean massage on this journey. No, not that one, but the one sitting in a bumpy 4×4 for the entire trip. I did this!

Other Ways – Unfortunately, the above are the only two ways to reach Bakelalan. There are no buses or trains for this experience. Out of curiosity, I ran a Google search for walking from Laws to Bakelalan, and it would take 31 hours nonstop.

What Should I Bring To Bakelalan?

This has to be added; if not, visitors will travel with their extra-large luggage bags, hairdryers, laptops, etc. First, if you take a flight here, you must weigh yourself and your luggage. So, just bring what you need.

• Trekking backpack
• Trekking clothes and shoes (I just use Adidas Kampung)
• GPS tracker if you plan to explore on your own
• Mosquito and insect repellent
• A special dietary food, if required
• Snacks and junk food if you must
• Halal or vegetarian food for special needs
• Camera and chargers
• A book would be a nice touch
• A good attitude towards the amazing local Lun Bawang people

Stunning landscapes waiting to be discovered in Ba’Kelalan.

Conclusion

If you have been looking for a unique destination in Malaysia to explore, rustic and out of the ordinary, Bakelalan is just the perfect place to visit. Remember that Bakelalan and Bario are not your regular tourist destinations.

If you’re considering where to visit, you can also read about my trip to the Bario Highlands, the sister village of Bakelalan. I have seen both, and each has its own unique experiences.

An image of what you can expect in Bakelalan.

Bakelalan is suitable for anyone who wants to experience what natural tourism in Malaysia is all about. This location lets you share what the local Lun Bawang highland people experience in everyday life, in a sweet and straightforward way.

There are few phone signals and Wi-Fi available, so you will most likely be disconnected from your daily routine. I call this a digital detox suitable for everyone, especially given how many people are attached to their smartphones and other devices today.

Up here, you will embark on a unique experience and learn about the Lun Bawang culture, and feast on the local food while exploring the many things to do in Bakelalan, as shared above.