A Journey to the Bario Highlands in Sarawak

MASwings plane arriving at Bario Highlands.

Where are the Bario Highlands?

The Kelabit Highlands, often referred to as the Bario Highlands, sit at an elevation of around 1,000 meters above sea level. This remote plateau is home to about 6,000 people, primarily Kelabits along with Lun Bawang, Kayan, and Kenyah communities — collectively known as the Orang Ulu, or “people of the interior.”

Geographically, the highlands stretch between the Tama Abu Range and the Apo Duat Range, right along the Sarawak–Kalimantan border. Within this plateau are about 10 villages, with Bario recognised as the main settlement and often called the capital of the Kelabit Highlands. Other notable towns include Ba’Kelalan, as well as the smaller settlements of Long Lellang and Long Seridan.

Bario is often described as one of the most beautiful places in Sarawak, not only for its dramatic landscapes but also for its rich cultural heritage. Getting there, however, is part of the adventure. The only regular access is by MASwings turboprop flights from Miri or Lawas, using small 16-seater Twin Otter planes. There are usually three flights daily, though seats are limited.

Flying into Bario is an unforgettable experience. With no stewardesses or in-flight amenities, it’s just you, the pilot, the co-pilot, and local villagers sharing the journey. Cruising low over endless rainforest, the views are breathtaking — but it’s the take-offs and landings on Bario’s short airstrip that provide the most thrilling part of the ride.

Flying to Bario

Flying into Bario is an experience in itself. The turboprop plane cruises at a low altitude, giving passengers a rare bird’s-eye view of Sarawak’s vast wilderness. From the window, you can see endless stretches of primary and secondary rainforest, with winding rivers and narrow logging roads cutting through the sea of green.

Because of Bario’s remote location, flights are highly weather-dependent. If conditions turn unfavourable, flights are often delayed, cancelled, or even forced to turn back mid-journey. It’s a reminder of just how unpredictable and untamed this part of Borneo can be.

On my flight, I had the chance to sit right behind the pilots, which made the experience even more memorable. Chatting with them gave me insight into the challenges of flying in the highlands — a journey that is as thrilling as it is scenic.

Bario airport staff are waiting.

The hum of the turboprop engines was so loud that it immediately silenced even the most talkative passengers. For once, it was a peaceful one-hour flight, free from chatter and gossip.

Looking around the small cabin, I noticed the different moods among my fellow travellers. The international journalists on board were split between excitement and nervous anticipation. At the same time, the local Kelabit passengers appeared completely at ease — many of them quietly dozing off as if it were just another routine trip home.

As we approached Bario, I leaned forward to ask the pilots about our landing. They kindly pointed out the village from the cockpit, just before banking the plane for its descent. With the weather on our side that day, the skies were clear, and I was lucky enough to capture the entire landing on video.

Words hardly do it justice — the clip below shows the thrill of arriving in one of Sarawak’s most remote and beautiful highland settlements.

Arriving at the Bario Highlands

Upon landing in Bario, our media group was warmly welcomed by our host, Scott Ngimat, a well-known local guide and homestay owner. His father had once been a respected village head, and today Scott continues that legacy by sharing Bario’s culture and hospitality with visitors.

Dressed casually with a friendly smile, Scott greeted us with ease and quickly brought his pickup truck around so we could load our luggage. The simplicity of the moment reflected the down-to-earth charm of the highlands.

Before heading to the homestay, we asked if we could stop for a cup of coffee at the small café near the airport. The cool highland breeze made it the perfect setting, with temperatures hovering around 18°C on the day of our arrival — a refreshing welcome compared to the heat of the lowlands.

A barrage of questions quickly followed as this was the first time many of us had set foot in Bario. Guests asked if there were shops, cafés, or even hotels nearby. Scott smiled and replied calmly, “There is nothing here but villages. We are hundreds of miles away from civilisation — this is the Bario Highlands.” His words set the tone for the experience ahead: remote, authentic, and unlike anywhere else.

After finishing our coffee and tea, we loaded up once again and made our way to Ngimat Ayu Homestay, which Scott and his family proudly run. The short 10-minute drive from the airport gave us our first real glimpse of Bario — a valley dotted with farmlands, paddy fields, and scattered Kelabit homes, framed by the cool mist and green highland hills. It was a journey that felt like stepping back in time.

Homestay in Bario

As we approached Ngimat Ayu Homestay, I couldn’t help but be reminded of the old television series “Little House on the Prairie.” Perched on a small hill overlooking the expansive Bario farmlands, the house itself was a blend of traditional design — half brick, half wood — with a rustic charm that immediately drew me in.

Stepping inside, I was greeted by a long, cosy hallway that seemed to tell its own story. Along the walls hung photographs of Scott’s family, a lineage deeply respected in the Kelabit community. In one corner, traditional Kelabit artefacts were carefully placed, while at the end of the hallway, an inviting nook with a sofa and a stack of books offered a perfect spot for quiet reflection.

The homestay carried with it a strong sense of history. Scott’s late father, Gerawat Aren @ Ngimat Ayu @ BelaanTauh, was the paramount chief of the Kelabit people from 1998 to 2005. His presence still lingered through the family portraits and the respect his name commanded among locals.

The common area of Ngimat Ayu homestay. Rooms are on the right side, while the outdoor balcony is on the left.

The guest rooms at Ngimat Ayu Homestay were arranged side by side, separated only by simple wooden doors. The hallway eventually opened out to a spacious balcony that overlooked the sprawling paddy fields and the serene highland landscape. This balcony quickly became the heart of the homestay — a place where guests gathered for meals, shared conversations, or sat in silence to breathe in the crisp mountain air.

One of the small but thoughtful touches was the free flow of Nescafé coffee, Milo chocolate, and instant tea available on the patio. It was a delightful bonus, especially for those long chats with fellow travellers or quiet evenings spent watching the mist roll across the valley.

Some of the media members who joined us brought books along, and it wasn’t uncommon to see them completely absorbed in their reading, sitting quietly with the cool highland wind gently blowing around them. It was a scene that perfectly captured the unhurried rhythm of life in Bario.

Meeting other visitors in Bario while trekking here.

Activities in Bario

Since this was a media trip, we only had two full days in Bario. A simple yet meaningful itinerary was arranged for us, covering the main highlights of the highlands.

Being in such a remote location, it’s only natural that most attractions here revolve around nature and culture. From trekking through the cool mountain air to visiting traditional longhouses and farms, everything about Bario feels authentic and unspoiled.

For me, this was exactly what I wanted. After hearing and reading so much about Bario over the years, I was finally able to experience the highlands in real time — to walk its trails, meet its people, and immerse myself in the simple yet profound rhythm of life here.

The local salt factory where Bario Salt is processed.

Bario Salt Factory Visit

One of Bario’s most fascinating local industries is its traditional highland salt production, located at Kampung Pa’Umor, about 1,100 meters above sea level. This small yet unique site is where Kelabit families take turns producing the renowned Bario Salt, a vital commodity that has been an integral part of their culture for generations. Each family typically spends around two weeks at the factory, which is situated near natural salt springs.

The process is entirely traditional. Natural saltwater is drawn from the springs and boiled over a large wood fire until the water evaporates. The salt is then packed into cut bamboo containers and left to dry, creating a product that is both organic and deeply tied to the land.

Observing the process firsthand was an unforgettable experience. Inside the hut where the saltwater was boiled, the heat was intense — easily reaching 40–50°C. I found myself drenched in sweat within minutes, but it only deepened my respect for the dedication of the families who continue this painstaking craft.

The Bario Salt is being processed.

After the initial drying process, the salt-filled bamboo tubes are placed once more near the fire for a final drying. Once ready, the bamboo is opened, and the salt is carefully packed in local wild jungle leaves, tied securely with fine rotan string. From there, the bundles are loaded onto water buffaloes, which carry them out from the salt springs to the nearest road.

The salt is then distributed in different ways — some kept for the families’ own use, some sold within the local community, and the rest passed on to traders who transport it to larger towns and cities. By the time it reaches urban markets, the price of Bario Salt has often increased by 30 to 40 per cent, reflecting both the effort and remoteness involved in its production.

Packing the salt in leaves

Bario Salt

Bario Salt is highly regarded across Sarawak for its naturally rich mineral content, making it a prized ingredient in local cooking. Containing essential minerals such as iron, calcium, potassium, and magnesium, it is not only valued for its flavour. Still, it has also been traditionally used by the Kelabit community as a natural remedy for thyroid problems.

A tube of Bario Salt typically costs RM20–RM30 (US$5.70–$8.50). Though produced in the remote highlands, it is widely available beyond Bario — you can easily find it for sale in Miri, particularly at airports, souvenir shops, local grocers, and wet markets. Its cultural and health significance, along with its unique production process, make it one of the most iconic products of the Kelabit Highlands.

Trekking in the highlands here.

Hiking and Trekking in Bario

For those who enjoy the outdoors, Bario offers plenty of opportunities for hiking and trekking through its scenic highlands. Trails here are unlike typical tourist paths — many lead deep into the pristine rainforest or connect remote Kelabit villages. Because of this, it is always advisable to go with a local guide who knows the routes well.

On my trip, I chose to explore the standard walking paths, which took me past Kelabit homes, lush paddy fields, small churches, and village schools. Along the way, I passed orchards tended by locals, who continued their daily chores as though I were invisible — a reminder of how life here flows at its own gentle pace.

A chestnut-hooded laughing thrush was seen while trekking.

Bird Watching in Bario

Bario is also an exciting destination for birdwatching, especially for those interested in rare montane species. As an amateur birder, I asked Scott, my host, to arrange a morning birding trip. He explained that some of the rarest and most endemic birds of Bario could only be found after trekking 5–8 hours into the highlands.

Instead, Scott took me along the old logging roads and up one of the hillsides. The experience was overwhelming — in just a single trip, I managed to spot at least 20 bird species, most of them completely new to me and considered “lifers.”

For anyone serious about birding, Bario is a hidden gem. Local guides like Scott know the terrain intimately and can help you seek out species that are otherwise difficult to find.

The Dhapur River in Bario.

Kayaking in Bario

Although I didn’t get the chance to try it during my visit, I noticed a poster on the community board at the airport promoting kayaking along the Dapur River in Bario. The idea of paddling through the highlands immediately caught my attention — it’s not the first activity most people associate with this remote destination. Still, it certainly adds a unique twist to the experience.

I can imagine how remarkable it must be to kayak through such pristine surroundings, with cool highland air, lush greenery on both sides, and the quiet flow of the river beneath you. It’s something I’ve added to my list for the next trip, and I would highly recommend adventurous travellers consider it too. After all, kayaking in the highlands is not something you get to do every day.

Inside a Kelabit Longhouse – See the depth?

Visiting a Kelabit Longhouse

Bario is home to many Kelabit longhouses, some traditional and weathered with age, others more modern in design. For those who have visited an Iban longhouse, the Kelabit version offers subtle yet distinct differences.

On my first visit, I expected to see the familiar ruai (corridor) common in Iban and other Orang Ulu communities. Instead, I was introduced to the Kelabit equivalent — the Tawa. Unlike the bustling, communal corridors of an Iban longhouse, the Tawa here is primarily used as a function area during celebrations and gatherings. As a result, it often feels more open and empty when not in use.

Another unique aspect I noticed was the way family portraits are displayed. Instead of being kept inside private rooms, photographs are prominently placed outside each doorway, almost like a gallery of heritage that tells the story of the families who live there.

Exploring a Kelabit longhouse is both a cultural and architectural experience, offering a window into the values of community, heritage, and hospitality that define life in the highlands.

The ‘Dapur’ or kitchen in the longhouse

When we visited one of the oldest Kelabit longhouses, the Bario Asal Longhouse, I was surprised to learn that we entered through the back — directly into the kitchen area. Our guide, Scott, explained that this is the customary way for guests to join, as the kitchen is considered the true heart of the longhouse. It is here where families gather, friends are welcomed, and guests are hosted.

Inside, a narrow pathway connects each bilik (family room) with both the Tawa (corridor) and the dapur (kitchen). At the centre of daily life is the tetal, or fireplace, where people come together to cook, talk, and share stories.

Some kitchens have been modernised with renovations, while others remain traditional, built around the main fireplace. Regardless of their style, the kitchens all serve the same purpose — a communal hub where warmth, food, and fellowship are shared every day.

Kelabit Food

Of all the unique foods I have tried during my travels, Kelabit cuisine stands out as one of the most memorable. Made primarily from natural resources, wild plants, and local herbs, the dishes here are unlike anything else in Malaysia — both distinct in flavour and deeply tied to the land.

One of the most popular dishes is Labo Belatuh, a type of smoked meat. Traditionally prepared with wild boar or venison, the meat is salted and smoked slowly over an open fire. Once ready, it is boiled down, pounded into thin strips, and typically eaten with fragrant Bario rice, the staple grain of the highlands. The result is a dish that is smoky, savoury, and earthy — perfectly reflecting the Kelabit people’s connection to their environment.

Traditional Kelabit Food.

During my stay in Bario, I had the chance to try a variety of jungle vegetables that are staples in Kelabit cuisine. These included meedin (wild fern shoots), tepus (a wild ginger flower bud), lanau, Bario Ajinomoto leaves (used as a natural flavour enhancer), bunga kantan (torch ginger flower), daun ubi (cassava leaves), and terong burung pipit (tiny wild eggplants).

Each of these ingredients was prepared in different ways — stir-fried, boiled, stewed, or sometimes cooked with rice — showcasing the versatility of Kelabit cooking. The flavours range from earthy and herbal to tangy and slightly bitter, making them both fascinating and, at times, an acquired taste for visitors unfamiliar with highland food traditions.

Our media group at Ngimat Ayu Homestay during lunch.

A Traditional Kelabit Dinner Experience

On my final night in Bario, our group was invited to Ulung Palang Longhouse, one of the more popular longhouses in the area, for a traditional Kelabit dinner followed by a cultural performance.

As we stepped inside, we were greeted warmly by locals dressed in full traditional attire. Each of us was served a refreshing Bario pineapple drink, beautifully presented in a hollowed-out pineapple — a fitting welcome to the evening ahead.

Dinner was served traditionally: sitting on mats laid out across the floor. A spread of Kelabit dishes was arranged before us, showcasing the flavours of the highlands. Among the highlights were my personal favourite, a type of river fern, alongside Kelabit sambal, steamed chicken wrapped in ginger leaves, Lingayen (wild Kelabit spinach), and Lanau, a dish of local asparagus paired with dried fish.

The atmosphere was warm and communal, with food that reflected not just the ingredients of the land but also the pride of the people who prepared it. It was a night that perfectly captured the spirit of Kelabit hospitality.

The media group is enjoying a traditional Kelabit dinner in a longhouse.

Kelabit Porridge.

The highlight of the evening was tasting kikid, a special Kelabit porridge, along with nuba’ laya, the region’s signature Bario rice neatly wrapped in palm leaves. Both dishes were simple yet deeply satisfying, embodying the heart of Kelabit cooking.

To end the meal, we were served the famous Bario pineapple, known locally as bua kabar. Sweet, juicy, and bursting with flavour, it was easily the best pineapple I have ever tasted. If there is one thing you absolutely must try in Bario, it is this remarkable fruit.

Kelabit Traditional Dance

A visit to Bario often includes the chance to witness a Kelabit traditional dance performance, usually hosted at one of the local longhouses. These cultural evenings typically begin with a conventional Kelabit dinner, followed by the performance, making it a unique culinary and cultural experience.

The dances are deeply rooted in Kelabit heritage, showcasing graceful movements, rhythmic steps, and traditional attire that reflect the stories and identity of the highlands. The atmosphere, set within the communal warmth of a longhouse, makes the performance even more captivating.

While words can only go so far, seeing the Kelabit dance in person — or even through video — is truly mesmerising, offering a glimpse into the living traditions of this unique community.

Homestays in Bario Highlands

The Bario Highlands currently has around 12 professionally managed homestays, with Ngimat Ayu Homestay being one of the most well-known. Additionally, there are several smaller homestays operated on a more casual, ad-hoc basis by local families.

Visitors should note that staying in Bario is a back-to-basics experience rather than a city-style getaway. There are no air-conditioners, hot showers, or modern conveniences here. Instead, you’ll find simplicity and authenticity. For those who find the highland water too cold, the traditional way is to boil water over a fire and bring it into the bathroom for a warm wash.

Meals are freshly prepared in each homestay, allowing guests to savour authentic Kelabit cuisine. Unlike urban destinations, you won’t find convenience stores, supermarkets, or cafés in Bario. The only options are a handful of small family-run grocery stalls and a simple tea stall in the main town area.

Staying in a Bario homestay is less about luxury and more about immersion — an opportunity to live alongside the Kelabit people and experience their traditions, hospitality, and way of life.

Bario landscape.

The highland paddy fields here.

Bario Megalith

While trekking around Bario, our guide led us to one of the highlands’ most fascinating cultural relics — a megalith known as Batu Narit. It is just one of more than 300 megalithic sites scattered across the Kelabit Highlands, each carrying its own mystery.

Batu Narit stands out as a large stone set in the middle of an open field. What makes it remarkable is the carving of a human figure, its arms stretched outward as though frozen in motion. The meaning behind the carving remains uncertain, and naturally, questions arose among our group: Who carved it? Why was it carved?

These unanswered mysteries give Bario’s megaliths their allure, connecting visitors not only to the land but also to the ancient stories and traditions of the Kelabit people.

A Megalith at Bario.

Without hesitation, I climbed up the rock to get a closer view and capture it on camera. From that vantage point, the carving appeared even more striking, its lines etched deep into the stone.

Locals often link such carvings to the legend of Upai Semaring, a mythical warrior said to have left his marks on several rocks throughout the highlands. Yet even with this explanation, the purpose behind the carvings remains uncertain. Were they meant as symbols, stories, or perhaps warnings?

No one seems to know for sure, and perhaps that is the beauty of it. The megaliths of Bario remain shrouded in mystery, quietly keeping their secrets for future generations to wonder about.

Kelabit Highlands Overview

Bario is located close to the Sarawak–Kalimantan border, nestled at the foot of the Kelabit Highlands in the northern reaches of the Apo Duat Range, near Mount Murud — Sarawak’s highest peak. This remote region is one of the most culturally rich areas of the state, home to the Kelabit people and their traditional way of life.

Within the Kelabit Highlands, there are around 15 longhouses, with the Bario district itself housing seven of them. The oldest and most historically significant is Bario Asal Longhouse, followed by others such as Lung Palang, Arur Dalam, Pa’ Ramapoh Atas, Pa’ Ramapoh Bawah, Pa’ Derung, Padang Pasir, and Kampung Baru.

According to local records, many of these longhouses were consolidated and established in the 1960s, marking an important era of settlement and community growth in the highlands. Today, they remain central to Kelabit culture, serving as living spaces, social hubs, and cultural landmarks.

Bario Asal Longhouse.

Pa’ Ramupuh Longhouse.

The local church in Bario.

The Kelabit population in Sarawak is estimated to be around 6,000 to 7,000 people, yet only about 800 to 1,000 still reside in the Kelabit Highlands today. Over the years, many Kelabits have left their ancestral homes in search of work, education, and opportunities in the cities, while some have settled overseas.

For those who remain, farming and cultivation continue to be the backbone of daily life. The highlands are best known for producing the celebrated Bario Rice and Bario Salt, both highly valued across Sarawak and beyond. Smaller crops are also grown, but the most striking sight in the valley is the patchwork of paddy fields, stretching across the landscape and defining the rhythm of Kelabit life.

Kelabit kids play freely.

Kelabit women welcoming guests.

The Bario Food Festival

This is probably one of the most unique festivals celebrated in Sarawak, on the island of Borneo. Called Pesta Nukenen Bario or the Bario Food Festival, it takes place here at the end of July and early August. Arrangements have to be made in advance if you want to witness this festival, as transportation and lodging are some of the hardest to book for this amazing event.

A sampling of the Pesta Nukenen Food Festival.

At the Bario Food Festival, visitors are treated not only to an incredible array of local dishes but also to traditional performances and cultural showcases. What makes the event truly special is the way the entire highland community comes together, with longhouses across the valley participating. Held in the centre of Bario, the festival is one of the best opportunities to experience Kelabit culture up close — through food, music, dance, and heartfelt hospitality.

Conclusion

For me, Bario represents a way of life that is increasingly rare in today’s fast-moving world. Here, the locals still practice centuries-old traditions, living simply and closely with the land, in stark contrast to the noise and pace of urban life.

Visiting Bario was a refreshing reminder of how life can be — unhurried, grounded, and fulfilling without the trappings of modern technology and city chaos. My time here made me reflect deeply on simplicity, community, and the value of slowing down.

If given the chance, I would gladly return for a week or two to clear my mind, free from smartphones, laptops, shopping malls, traffic jams, haze, and the pollution that so often defines city living.

For travellers seeking something truly different, I highly recommend making the journey to the Bario Highlands in Sarawak. Go before modernisation reaches too far, and experience for yourself the incredible culture, hospitality, and natural beauty of this hidden gem in Borneo.